Bugs, Birds, Barro y Naturaleza

A big part of our decision to head this direction after India was to disfrutar la naturaleza a.k.a to spend more time alone in the wilderness. So far we've done a fair job...our first exploration on El Sendero de los Quetzales near Boquete, Panama gave a great introduction to jungle hiking. Mud, erosion, steep ascents, and splashy creek crossings welcomed us on a through hike that led us to Cerro Punta. After the hike, we passed the afternoon sharing chips and salsa with village kids, shared dinner with new friends and heard the word of god from our incredibly kind hostess who gave witness to the power of Jesus in eloquent Spanish! What a night! What a day! We fell into bed exhausted.

The next day on our hike back to Boquete with new friends, Edward & Sara, we spotted the Resplendent Quetzal himself. The bird was once found throughout Central America (CA) but is now endangered. We were lucky enough to spot one on our first trek and our luck has held through many more wildlife spottings since.

After a week in luxurious Boquete we were back on the trail in Corcovado National Park on Costa Rica´s Osa Penninsula. This park is one of the largest areas of untouched rainforest left in CA and offers incredible opportunities to spot wildlife in their element. On our first day we hiked 3 beautiful beach km to La Leona Ranger Station. There we met several other gringos (most, but not all, of the park's visitors come from other parts of the world), we shared stories, and we enjoyed the violent surf. (Really, I enjoyed the surf, M waded into her hips, got taken down by a big wave, skinned her knee and waded rapidly and emotionally to safer ground.) We covered 20 sweaty km the next day as we traversed perfect beaches, steamy jungle, and rocky shorelines to the middle of the park at La Sirena Ranger Station. La Sirena felt as deeply off the map as any place I've ever been with an airstrip. The jungle trees towered over the narrow clearing seemingly ready to take it back as soon as the guard´s backs were turned. Just before sunrise the Jurassic Park soundtrack began from all sides. Our little tent felt very vulnerable as the howling grew nearer and nearer. The Kongs, a.k.a Howler Monkeys, sent shivers up our excited spines as we awoke. We enjoyed leaving the tent in one spot for the day and took advantage of the cool morning to explore muddy trails, hunt elusive tapirs, prowl for monkeys, and dodge the sun in the jungle shade. By 10 am it was too hot to move so we holed up and tried to stay cool on the broad porches of the ranger station. By evening it was cool enough to venture to the river for a swim (careful to avoid the freshwater sharks and crocodiles!) and then to the beach for a sunset dinner. Our next morning started at 4 a.m. as we donned headlamps and headed for a long slog through the jungle. Fifteen km of flat jungle walking readied us for the final 5 km push up trails gorged with red sloppy mud. Though March is the end of the dry season our shoes were still swallowed in mud stirred up by boots and hooves into a thick goopy pudding that stuck to everything. I can´t imagine what this place must look like in la epoca de lluvia...the rainy season. Our day brought butterflies, turkeys, loads of lizards, spider monkeys, sloths, the world's greatest swimming hole, and a soccer game with the park rangers that entertained us to no end. A long hike down and out on a trail that crossed the river 23 times brought us back to the limited civilization of a bus stop. One, dusty, jostling truck ride later, we reached Puerto Jimenez. After a cold beer and a shower we felt the swelling tide of Semana Santa drawing Ticos to the beach. Quickly, the quiet town was turning into a Spring Break hot spot and it was time for us to head out.
Our latest wilderness adventure was in Chirripó National Park. The highest peak in Costa Rica, Chirripó, offers a trail that starts at 5,000 feet and climbs to an altitude of about 12,500. The wet jungle gives way to cloud forest and then to a tropical alpine ecosystem all within a day´s climb. To sweeten the deal we found a great guest house 50 mts from the trail head. Casa Mariposa is winning the best hostel of the trip award and gave a great base from which to launch a climb.
Mercy's body told her to opt out of the Chirripó adventure so I went solo. Leaving the tent at about 4 am I headed up the trail with headlamp ablaze. I reached the midway point of the climb about daybreak and the Crestone shelter by about 8:30. After a quick breakfast I went in search of the summit. Enjoying the passing wind and rain, I explored the alpine environment. The climbers shelter was a solar powered dorm complete with kitchen and Internet! Most people stayed a couple days to explore several nearby peaks and alpine lakes at leisure. I napped and visited for several hours before nonchalantly heading back down the hill at about 5 pm. I was feeling good, had a light pack and thought sundown was at 6:30. I figured I could run down and be back to Casa Mariposa in time for dinner. Right....
The trouble I ran into was the reality of a cloud forest. They call them Cloud Forests because they are almost always shrouded in mist. This turned out to be the case as I descended. The quick run down the hill in afternoon light turned into a very dark slog in the mud. Sound familiar? The headlamp actually made visibility worse. All I saw was the light reflecting back from the water vapor surrounding my head. Whiteout conditions coupled with the mud-pudding from the afternoon showers resulted in a slow and messy descent.

When I finally opened the back door Mercy greeted me with a relieved smile and helped me hose off. The Casa Mariposa was full of new friends and a communal meal was on the stove. By the time I'd cleaned up the house was ready to eat. About 17 of us crowded into the cozy living room HCW style to share stories for the rest of the evening. Only a bunch of good company could have kept me awake after that 50 km day and Casa Mariposa delivered.