In the days leading up to their flight emails full of food needs, packing lists, and last minute treats for two weary world travelers “ping pong-ed” between Roatan and Seattle. Thrilled Donna and Robert were planning to make it but trying not to get too attached to the idea we bussed up to San Pedro to meet their flight. San Pedro has all the crime, grime, heat, and sprawl of a modern Latin American city. The streets are wide, the buildings low, walls are topped with barbed wire or broken glass and good people don’t walk around town after dark. Hunting for a nice place for them to land their first night in country proved to be too much for us. We found a crappy little hostel with a Honduran heavy metal band practicing in the lobby, no doorknobs on the bathroom, a shower that would only trickle out scalding water, and a huge pile of disgusting dishes waiting in the communal kitchen. Perfect. The saving grace was a swanky little steak house with an extensive wine list waiting across the street. We were psyched to get out of town on the first bus in the morning. In celebration of Donna and Roberts arrival, or to make up for our shitty hotel choice, we hopped on a first class bus to Copan Ruinas. We headed north in icy air con comfort enjoying a new-release Hollywood movie and ample reclining chairs. The gleam of the authentic chicken bus and crammed collectivo was fully tarnished.
Lingering breakfasts, late afternoon happy hours on the patio, and explorations of the1200-year-old Mayan ruins of Copan kept us entertained. After four days, we were sad to say goodbye to Honduras as we boarded the mini-bus “shuttle” to Antigua, Guatemala. Six hours later we uncurled ourselves from the van to wander the sparkling colonial cobblestone streets in search of lodging for our group. We found a charming posada whose profits support kids who live in the dumps of Guatemala City.
Food in Antigua is world class. From sushi to Mexican to Lebanese you can find it easily in the colorful Spanish style town. Though Donna was knocked down with stomach struggles, days passed quickly for the rest of us as we wandered the streets, met local iron workers, lingered in the plaza and generally did a great job of soaking up the place.
No less dramatic and remarkable was our next stop, Lago Atitlan. With its rugged terrain and steep volcanoes, many of the 15 villages arrayed around the lakes shores are only accessible by motorboat taxis. We were drawn to San Marcos, a small village now famous for the alternative lifestyle expat community that supports half a dozen meditation centers, drumming circles, and aura workshops. This, surprising as it may seem, was not what drew us there. No, it was Aaculaax, a small beautiful guesthouse built with an innovative collection of construction techniques using waste, natural materials and a whole lot of artistic flair.
Stuccoed walls were filled with plastic bottles crammed full of plastic bags to insulate the structures. Beds, lamps, sinks and countertops were all natural materials or creatively used alternative stuff.
Long conversations about life and futures continued as we headed back to Antigua for our final days before sending the suegros back to Seattle. The best part of their visit was sharing some of the adventure with loved ones “real-time”. I am thrilled they made time to come visit us and look forward to sharing stories with the rest of you when we return…in just about 3 weeks!
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